Fiberglass Decklid

I was looking at either a Fiberglass deck lid or a Carbon Fiber deck lid. If I thought I could fit a carbon fiber and leave the matt exposed as a final finish, it would have made a nice looking deck lid. As these cars vary car to car being some what hand build, I knew fitment would be required which meant sanding, filling ruining the look a carbon fiber lid would have.

I chose the fiberglass deck lid. I found it to be quite sturdy and well build; but it fit's like a tennis shoe on a horse. First let me say I do not blame the vendors. As cars vary I would bet this thing fits someone's car well; but not mine.


The fit was very poor. The sides were well below the deck of the car, the gaps varied allot. The front of the deck lid had a gap large enough to put in a magic marker, and the rear was 1/8" or more forward of the back of the car.	Anywhere the panel will need to be built up, the gel coat is sanded 40 grit. I used an orbital sander.

Cleaning Solvent.	Panel is wiped with appropriate solvent to ensure cleanliness and adhesion. .

I am using a product called "STUFF-IT" which is pre mixed fiberglass matt.	Mixing this "stuff" is very difficult. A stiff cup is essential. Tin cans work well. I use a heavy duty pegboard hook to mix the hardener. The ball on the tip seems to help. I add extra hardener since it is simply so hard to mix.

Plastic is put between the deck lid and body. "STUFF-IT" is mixed and applied in a thick layer.	The fiberglass is sanded 40 grit with an orbital sander to start.

As you get close, sand by hand with a flat sander. This will fine tune the level of the panel.	The rear of the roof and front of the deck lid had a gap a magic marker would fit in. A piece of music wire was welded in to help fill the gap.

The deck lid latch was changed (other construction page). This type of deck lid latch helps stop side to side movement of the deck lid.	A thin metal ruler and 80 grit sand paper good for smoothing gaps.

The gap in front of the deck lid needs to be larger to allow for deck lid opening.	Make the gap large enough to allow for the thickness of paint.

Open the deck lid to check for clearance and to continue sanding.	Welds grinded down and a little feathered in.

Matt inside deck lid has nice texture. I tapped it up with heavy paper to keep it that way.	"MAR-GLASS" is made of a much more fine or grinded up matt. A lot less stringy and easier to mix then "STUFF-IT".

"MAR-GLASS" used to help fill the edge to complete it's shape.	Block sand edges straight. The deck lit will have to be fit again, gaps re sanded and edges cleaned up again.

	After initial sanding of the back of the deck lid, the gap will need to be sanded.
Rear of the deck lid was built back up with "STUFF-IT".	In order to sand the gap properly I decided to go ahead and install the hood pins. This will hold the gap uniform when sanding.

The deck lid had an ideal spot to run the hood pin through. A hole was drilled in the deck lid.	With the deck lid closed I used a pencil to mark the location of where the deck lid pin will mount.

A hole is made in the back for the pin to go through. This area will flex if not reinforced. A template was made and a piece cut from 14g steel.	Back deck drilled. Initial hole with 1/4" bit then drilled larger with step drill. The step drill is ideal for this. Deck lid is also drilled larger with step drill.

The plate and nut welded to the back panel. The pin is removable. It can be locked in place with a locking nut in the tail light cavity.	The hood pin plate was made form aluminum on the lathe.

Any bubbles or divots in the fiberglass matt should be ground out and re-filled.	Finish sanding Gel Coat (surface) then awaiting first coat of primer.

Glue tubing to the cut out for Webbers to give it back the edge. Carbon fiber arrow stock works well for this. Rest of the gel coat is sand; mostly by orbital and rest by hand.	A little "Stuff It" to complete the edge.

The entire surface (every corner) must be sanded before spraying primer. I used 40 grit.	First coat of primer.
	All that is left, is to go over the pin holes, fine tune the gaps, finish the surface transition and final prep for paint.
Finished area around Webbers.