Body work and Paint prep 

 

(click for larger image:)

Beginning priming and general body work.

 

More as it progresses!

 

 

Fixing the dreaded fly-window door crack!

When I had the car glass blasted and etched primed I asked the guys to weld in a piece of steel across the crack. All they did was weld the crack witch did not re-enforce the area.

 

 
1/8" x 1/2" x 5" piece of steel. Cut slot with grinder across cracked area and tap in steel. Grinder is about the right width.
Tac weld in several places to keep it from moving before you weld it in. Weld a little here, and a little there. Try not to get it too hot or you can warp the panel. My welding duration was never over 1 second. 
Grind the weld down and use a straight edge to check height of grinding. Grind the weld and not the door skin which is thin. I had to weld in a hole I created from grinding. This is tough when the metal gets thin. I defiantly could have cleaned the metal with a sander more before I welded that.
Some areas of the door may end up warping up slightly. Use body hammer to shrink them down. I place the door on the floor and hold the surrounding areas firmly. About 100 hits latter and the metal is shrunk and level.  Shrinking metal with blows from the body hammer. Do not hit it hard enough to bend it but use multiple blows. A torch can also be used in tough areas. Heat it and use the hammer. Heat causes metal shrinkage. Do this cautiously as not to create problems elsewhere.
Go ahead and cover with more putty than you need as 90% will be sanded off. Block sand 40-60 grit to make level. Do not use "Bondo", go to a paint shop and get a descent filler with reinforcement fiber.  More to come here.  
Fender was bumped and had a very poor repair job with a lot of lead and bondo. I cut out the metal and welded in 3 new pieces recreating the front nose.  
When welding, find a position that supports your arms. You can weld a lot more accurately. Notice the elbows on the knees. Get close enough to see what you are doing. For reference I am using a Hobart 135 with gas and .024 rod (no flux). My setting for the thin metal was 1 on heat and 10 on feed. Weld from the 1/8" piece to the door skin concentrating on the 1/8" piece. If you concentrate on the door skin it will melt pretty quickly. Keep the gun close. It helps the argon shield and welds better. 

I am not wearing the best clothes here; especially the cotton gloves. I welded wearing a cotton bib. I noticed my lap feeling a might hot. I looked down and I was on fire. I now have an easy access to my zipper.

HAVE FUN!

 

 

 

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